Secret Garden Restaurant Review
Our reporter had lunch at the Secret Garden Restaurant [part of The Witchery by the Castle] - here's what she thought of it:The entrance to the Secret Garden restaurant at The Witchery by the Castle is through Boswell's Court, off Castlehill. Inside, a curved, stone staircase took me down into the room, which looked out onto a topiary and urn filled terrace. My coat was taken immediately and a waitress showed me to a table where I perused the comprehensive, seemingly slightly expensive, menu.
After taking my order for the 'Light Lunch' the waitress suggested I retain the menu as it contained a page of information about my surroundings. I read that James Thomson established this, his second restaurant, in 1990, the first being The Witchery by the Castle almost 25 years ago. His third is The Tower, above the Museum of Scotland.
The Witchery claims to be frequented by visiting celebrities such as Vivienne Westwood, Jack Nicholson, Michael Douglas and Catherine Zeta-Jones. Glancing around, I found they were not visible in The Secret Garden today.
The waitress set my glass of wine on the wobbly table and then quickly placed a branded box of 'Witchery' matches under one leg to keep it steady. I scanned the room while awaiting my food.
A former schoolyard, there was a painted ceiling portraying scenes from the tarot and a bagpipe-playing cherub. The tables were laid with crisp white tablecloths and a small candle.
I tucked into Leek and Roquefort tart to start. Creamy melted cheese, filled with thinly chopped leeks, oozed from a pastry casing as I cut into the crust. I am not normally a fan of blue cheese but this was delicious!
The waitress explained that the company now also own the Prestonfield hotel near Arthur's Seat, and that The Witchery itself generally only opens at night. Its tiny windows are below waist height at street level and therefore it is almost completely reliant on candlelight.
My 'Beef Daube with bacon and tarragon mash' appeared. The beef was tender in a rich dark sauce, made with garlic, onions and red wine. 'The missing ingredient I think you are looking for is orange rind' said the waitress (who had returned to the kitchen to ask the chef).
My main course depleted, she swept away the non-existent crumbs from my table with a shiny tray and brush. Ordering 'Brioche bread and butter pudding', (served with blueberries and Chantilly Cream), a gentleman on the table next to me was told it would be ten to fifteen minutes to serving as 'it is made fresh each time'. I ordered coffee instead, having no room for dessert.
That afternoon the restaurant was scattered with couples or people dining alone, the flow of diners being steady but relaxed and not too busy. It's a shame the door at the back leading to the toilets, squeaked every time it was opened and occasionally I heard the kitchen staff shouting to each other behind an ill-fitting door to my left. These few small distractions from my formal, but friendly, surroundings were not enough however, to divert me from a delicious meal at a reasonable price and such courteous service from a helpful and knowledgeable waitress.